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It sounds like there is leakage past the 2 and possibly the 3 flapper valves and these are the two main valves. If the autoteol doesn’t seal against its seat you may get water into the salt tank.

With all of the flappers and other parts off one might be able to by soaking it in some thing like iron out. I’ve cleaned the little screen and the injector – and I’ve cleaned the air check valve base. There is no check valve anywhere inside the Autotrol The air check is where the brine line going to the salt tank is connected to the control valve on top the air check.

I also have an Autotrol – and the brine tank is consistently overfilling.


I have an Autotrolthe problem I am having is it is not drawing brine in fact during the brine cycle it flows a small amount of water into the brine tank instead of creating the suction needed to draw brine out of the tank. Can you hear the valve move if you shake the valve body? I have soaked it in Iron out, flushed it, cleaned the flapper valves, screen, injector valve basically everything that can come apart has come apart and been cleaned.


You don’t need any new module etc.

Water Purification

Thanks for all the helpful advice. I replaced all the flapper valves and everything works fine now. When it is free anyway. The time now is In what area is mqnual check valve and is there anything that it can be soaked in to clean it out like Iron out.

Watts Autotrol 255 (400 Series) User Manual

I will let you know the results, thanks. The only “check valve” is the black rubber ball in the air check on the right side facing the control. I have taken the control valve off numerous times, disassembled it and cleaned it as best I can. I’ve never seen a bad ball. I remember seeing it in the old manuals where it showed a check valve but no real clear way to get to it.

Autotrol User Manuals | Water Softeners Filters

It sounds as if you need a set of new flapper valves, especially the brine pair. What kind of water quality are you deal with? I also was going to buy a rebuild kit but don’t want to waste the money if I need to replace the valve assembly. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

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My main problem is iron, I thought about soaking it in a heavy concentrate of super iron out for a couple of days. While looking at the parts brake down of that valve, I see that there are some O rings between the two parts. Originally Posted by kpreilly.

Yes I agree, I disassembled the valve, again, and soaked everything in a concentrated solution of Iron out majual it is clean. After putting it aurotrol together and installing it back on the tank it still won’t siphon brine and actually water comes out of the brine well tube. I have a steady, but slow stream of water little more than a trickle coming through the drain line. So I will get a rebuild kit and try that. I will have to check one of the valves that I have in the pile, see what it sounds like.

If I need one do you have a valve that can be rebilt, or how much is a new valve without the timer. All times are GMT The Autotrol part number of ATthe valve body that sets on top of the tank adapter module aytotrol to be around Autotrol won’t draw brine Printable View.

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